Driving up the main road toward the mountains in Taoyuan’s Daxi District, when we turn into an alley off Fuxing Road, a tall building with many large windows appears: the Daxi Tea Factory. In 1899, a Japanese firm named Mi­tsui came to Taiwan to cultivate tea; then in 1926, they built a tea processing plant—today’s Daxi Tea Factory—beside Mt. Jiao­ban (Jiao­ban­shan), opening a new page in the history of black tea in Taiwan.

Located in the mountains of Taoyuan, the Daxi Tea Factory integrates British, Japanese, and Chinese architectural styles. The main structure with its very high ceilings is based on a tea plant in Assam, India. The interior layout was commissioned to a Japanese designer, and the building was constructed by Taiwan army engineers.

Fusion architecture

Taiwan’s black tea cultivation and production flourished under Japanese rule after 1895. While oolong tea exports were dominated by Western companies and pouchong tea was controlled by Taiwan’s local tea merchants, black tea gained increasing popularity under Japanese management. Mi­tsui was a leader in this area in Taiwan, establishing the Nit­toh Black Tea brand, which it sold into the US and Europe. The company owned a number of plantations and tea factories throughout Northern Taiwan, so in fact the Jiao­ban­shan Tea Factory was only one of eight. The plant boasted the most up-to-date technology of the time, using the latest machinery for processing. In 1928, the factory introduced six British Jackson tea leaf rolling machines and began mass production. To meet the demand, the factory operated three shifts with machines running around the clock, processing an annual output of up to 6 million pounds of tea. This was the “black gold” era of Taiwan tea.

The Jiao­ban­shan Tea Factory was renamed the Daxi Tea Factory in 1946, its tea exports continuing to earn valuable foreign exchange for Taiwan after the island’s return to Chinese rule. The good times didn’t last for long, however. In 1956, the factory was destroyed by fire. But as luck would have it, on the way to his country villa on Mt. Jiao­ban, then-president ­Chiang Kai-shek was disappointed to see that the familiar tea factory had disappeared. After finding out what had happened, ­Chiang ordered that the factory should be rebuilt.

The reconstructed tea factory is of brick with a cypress frame, the design based on an Indian Assam tea plant with very high ceilings. The interior layout was commissioned to a Japanese designer, and the building constructed by Taiwan army engineers. So the new building was a fusion of English, Japanese and Chinese cultures, says Tammy Liu, vice president of Taiwan Tea Corporation.

The blue paintwork of the old cast-iron processing machines echoes the green-blue of the new sales area.

Green architecture

Unusually for its day, the Daxi Tea Factory cleverly brings nature into its indoor spaces. “This building was well ahead of its time with this concept of green architecture,” says Liu.

Because tea production had entered the era of mass production, the enormous quantities of leaf that were needed could not be dried naturally in the sun, so the second floor was used for withering while the first (ground) floor was a warehouse and processing area. Using the principle that hot air rises, when machines like driers were operating on the lower level, the heat they generated rose to the second floor and accelerated the withering process.

And this was not the only aid to withering. The northern and southern walls of the second-level withering area were equipped with four ventilation fans, while the windows facing east and west could be opened to bring in fresh air, maintaining optimum temperature and moisture levels. It’s an example of how the factory used natural processes to aid production.

The withered leaves passed through hoppers directly down to the Jackson rolling machines on the first floor, a design that saved a lot of time and labor. 

From these details, it’s clear how effectively the Japanese designers integrated nature into the design of the building. Later, the business was taken over by the Taiwan Tea Corporation, eventually closing down for around 15 years. Then in 2010, renovations began and the factory was revived: “Our company’s English name is Taiwan Tea Corporation, which gives us some responsibility for the country’s tea industry. We had a sense of mission, and our aim was to refurbish the brand,” says Liu.

The east and west walls on the second floor feature large windows which can be opened or closed to control ventilation, an example of how the factory uses natural processes to enhance efficiency.

Rebuilding the glory

In 2013, the old tea factory was re-opened. ­Renovation work was carried out by architect Divooe Zein, who specializes in integrating architecture with nature. Reviving the past glories of the old factory was the focus for the design, but it was also considered important to retain the basic structure and style of the old building.

The main color used was a low-key gray-blue. The inspiration for this decision came from the gray-blue lattice windows on the second floor, revealing a sense of the ages. The tea processing machines also featured cast-iron frames that were painted blue. The wall behind the sales counter was painted green-blue, set off with filament bulbs hanging from the roof on red wiring. Under the dim lighting, the low-key color scheme imbues a feeling of subdued luxury.

Many details of the old building have been preserved, enabling people to ruminate on the past of the tea factory. The gift shop manager at the factory, Wan Guang­jiu, points to the polished stone floor and tells us, “The parts of the floor covered with cement were where the tea processing machines were located.” Looking up, one notices the blackened ceiling, resulting from the heat of the three dryers working hard over many decades. The use of steel shelves in the gift shop and book café areas was inspired by the iron racks which were used in the past to dry tea leaves in the sun. The shelves create a sense of openness, and also reinforce the link to the history of the old factory.

The space outside the book café was originally the warehouse. The architect removed its roof in the renovations, and set up a long rectangular water feature surrounded by a walking area. This innovation has brought natural light into the building, integrating the sky and clouds, plant life and water into the book café.   

The ceiling of the withering area on the second floor was also removed, exposing the original 151 timber roof trusses. They were the work of the army engineers, who demonstrated their building skills using mortice and tenon joints to create an intertwined fantasy space, presenting a stunning sight to those below. Light comes in through the long rows of old blue lattice windows according to the weather and seasons; nearby, several round stools are placed, helping to create a place of reflection where time seems to stand still.

The blackened ceiling is the result of the heat from the three dryers working hard over many decades. The withering area on the second floor uses the principle that hot air rises. The dryers and other machinery on the lower level generate heat which accelerates the withering process on the upper.

A new soul

The tea factory is still operating according to the solar terms of the traditional Chinese calendar. Tea leaves are picked soon after the Qing­ming Festival (Tomb Sweeping Day), green tea is produced in spring and fall, and black tea in summer.

Enjoyment of a good cup of tea has always been the primary goal of the tea factory. Today, they emphasize products from their own plantations, with organic teas cultivated, picked and processed by the factory. They also connect with the local community, inviting local organic farmers to sell their produce in the tea fac­tory’s sales area, and they run a vegetarian buffet on the premises, emphasizing the use of fresh local ingredients in season.   

How would one describe the Daxi Tea Factory in a few words? “An old tea factory with a new soul!” says Tammy Liu, pouring a cup of tea—and enjoying a sip. 

The wall of the tea room is decorated with 737 black and white Pu-erh tea bricks, exuding an atmosphere of timeless stability.

The colored metal chairs bought from Java match the light-industrial atmosphere of the tea factory.

After removal of the ceiling in the second-floor withering area, the original 151 timber roof trusses were exposed. These were the work of army engineers who demonstrated their woodworking skills with the many mortice and tenon joints, creating an interwoven fantasy space. It’s a stunning sight when seen from below.