Authentic flavors
Wu established Taiwan Way as a social enterprise, stressing the authentic flavors of local Taiwan produce and providing advice to help the Aboriginal peoples develop processing techniques for their agricultural products. The company also helps to revitalize local varieties, looking for stories from the local Aboriginal communities relating to their traditional crops and farming techniques. For example, Limnophila rugosa is a semi-aquatic herb that grows in the Amis village of Tidaan (Shitiping) in Hualien County’s Fengbin Township. Flourishing in an environment fed by fresh spring water, it’s a Taiwanese endemic species that is used by the village elders to brew alcoholic spirits. As Wu observed and explored their ancestral wisdom, she was able to guide the community to appreciate the value of the species, helping the young to see job opportunities in their own community and encouraging them to return to their hometowns.
Cultivation according to the solar terms doesn’t mean that crops will grow faster. In fact, this mode of farming may create more work for the farmer. It’s an attitude of respect for and protection of nature. For example, processing of the roselle cultivated by some Aboriginal communities in Taitung County is a simple but time-consuming process involving a great deal of manual work to harvest the calyxes and remove the seed capsules. Pickled honey roselle, which uses the fresh roselle calyx mixed with sugar and honey, and roselle biscuits, baked from dried roselle ground at low temperatures and wheat flour, are examples of solar term products developed by Taiwan Way and Aboriginal communities working together.
The over-commercialization of farming has meant that many have abandoned traditional cultivation methods and have lost touch with nature. “Taiwan Way aims to bring people close to the soil again,” says Wu. Naturally cultivated crops are given an appropriate time period for growth, time to absorb all of the rich minerals supplied by the soil, bringing out all the deep, full flavors of naturally farmed food. To highlight the enormous differences between natural cultivation and technology-based farming, earlier this year Wu opened a restaurant in Taipei’s Zhongzheng District called Original Food.
Original Food is based on the concept of a solar term diet, eating only locally produced food in season. The restaurant uses only fresh seasonal ingredients from Aboriginal communities, prepared simply, for its delicious solar term meals. It’s early winter, the right time for a special soup that uses seasonal taro, and fermented soybean paste with pineapple, all stewed together with pork ribs and simple seasoning. People from the neighborhood are regulars at Original Food, regarding the restaurant as their home kitchen away from home.
Apart from offering solar term meals, the restaurant also features various pickled solar term foods displayed in jars along the wall, with produce such as pickled peaches made in the “Grain Full” period, and Taiwanese chrysanthemum (Dendranthema indicum) in the “Minor Snow” period. Through simple preservation techniques, people can enjoy seasonal produce anytime without having to cultivate crops in inappropriate seasons.
We are all organisms nourished by the earth, and we can all benefit from the wisdom of our ancestors. A deep understanding of the solar terms helps us to learn how to live well, and to understand our roots. People are far better nourished by their own local resources. We hope that the wonderful flavors of the solar term diet can be enjoyed by increasing numbers of people, and hope also that the Chinese solar term culture will proliferate forever.
With a rich cultural foundation springing from the solar terms, Seed Design is able to explore creative uses of local foods in its research lab.
Cultivation according to the seasons and climate is an inheritance from ancient Chinese ancestors. The solar terms have been used for millennia as an agricultural calendar.
Wu Meimao has encouraged organic farming among Taiwan’s Aboriginal communities for many years. This year, she opened a restaurant called Original Food to deliver the simple but rich flavors of solar term food.
Wu Meimao has encouraged organic farming among Taiwan’s Aboriginal communities for many years. This year, she opened a restaurant called Original Food to deliver the simple but rich flavors of solar term food.
Wu Meimao has encouraged organic farming among Taiwan’s Aboriginal communities for many years. This year, she opened a restaurant called Original Food to deliver the simple but rich flavors of solar term food. (photo courtesy of Taiwan Way)
If farmers work hard to cultivate crops according to the solar terms, the earth will return the investment in abundance.
If farmers work hard to cultivate crops according to the solar terms, the earth will return the investment in abundance. (photo courtesy of Taiwan Way)